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Willy's Smokehouse Executive Chef Gene Moana Chef Gene Moana may have inherited his easy dignity: His grandfather was chief of Aua, the largest village in American Samoa. “He was so respected, his funeral lasted seven days,” says Chef Moana proudly, his expressive eyes shining with the memory. This personable chef utilizes his natural leadership abilities as executive chef of Willy’s Smokehouse, the hot new barbecue restaurant on Cannery Row. “I’m a good organizer and stay calm,” Chef Moana says matter-of-factly about running his kitchen staff of 26. “Nobody works for me—we work together.” Chef Moana explains that the restaurant is trying to stay true to the roots of barbecue, including offering a dry-rubbed beef brisket that’s slow-cooked for 22 hours. “I’m trying to be humble, but our brisket is awesome!” He grins conspiratorially. “And the potato salad’s my mother’s secret recipe.” Chef Moana considers himself strict but fair, traits he learned from his parents. “My dad’s the Great Santini,” he laughs, referring to his father’s focused military career. “And my mom’s a true inspiration. She taught me my work ethic and still works full-time.” Hired as a dishwasher at age 14, Chef Moana was running his first restaurant by 18 and went on to head several top Monterey Bay area kitchens. He describes his family as “classic American Samoan—lots of people and food, big on caring,” a food-oriented background that helped guide his cooking career. “And I’ve worked with some great chefs,” he adds, including three who helped mold the Smokehouse menu: Cy Yontz (Rio Grill), Michael Kimmel (Tarpy’s Roadhouse), and Tony Baker (Montrio Bistro). Although his past addresses include American Samoa, Hawaii, and Louisiana, Chef Moana’s also solidly local. The Seaside High graduate has lived here nearly 40 years, raising two sons and two daughters with his wife, Lisa. “It’s a beautiful area, with great people,” he says warmly. “I judge success by asking, ‘Is my family happy? Am I happy where I am?’ I’m lucky in my life and work: I can’t imagine doing anything else.” Chef Moana’s grandfather would be proud. |
